Biomaterials - Sustainable Innovation

In recent years, fashion industry has seen a significant shift towards sustainability due to urgent need to address the climate crisis .Over the time Biomaterials have gained significant amount of attention as an alternative to traditional, oil-based synthetics and animal derived leather.

The Rise of Biofabrication:

Since the release of WGSN’s 2020 Bioactive report, there has been noticable increase in interest and investment in biofabricated materials. In partnershipwith biotech innovators Luxury brands, sportswear companies, and high street retailers have explored the possibilities of biofabrication. With considerable backing and years of research and development, these materials are now nearing fashion market.

Industry Growth and Investment:

According to the Material Innovation Initiative’s (MII) 2021 State of the Industry Report, the next-gen materials industry, including biofabrication, is projected to experience exponential growth in the coming years. There has been increase in investment for biofabricated materials, with funding in 2020 alone surpassing the total investment of previous four years . This quick expansion signifies promising future for biofabrication in fashion.

Navigating Regulation and Guidelines:

Even after the expansion and excitement surrounding biofabric materials, there is still lack of regulations and guideline governing their use. To address this issue, organizations such as Biofabricate and Fashion for Good have developed resources like Understanding Bio Innovations which gives insights into various biofabrication technologies, production processes and potential impacts.

Exploring Biotech Innovations:

One of the interesting aspects of biofabrication is the diversity of materials that can be produced from durable leather-like substances to functional papery textiles and membranes. Let's take a look at some notable biotech innovators and their ground-breaking creations:

1. Polybion:

-Leather-like material grown using local Mexican fruit waste.

2. Malai-eco:

- Uses waste coconut water mixed with natural fibers to create cellulosic gelatin sheets with unique textures, ideal for accessories and apparel.

3. Modern Synthesis:

- Develops nanocellulose leather-like materials with rip-stop qualities, offering a dry, warm, papery touch.

- Recently secured significant funding to expand its innovative production methods.

4. GOZEN

- GOZEN has produced a 3D ultra-crystalline translucent microbial material, while Bucha Bio offers durable, water-resistant leather-like materials and translucent sheets suitable for various fashion applications.

5.  Bucha Bio

-Has created two Kombucha developments : Shorai which is leather - like mono- material and Hikari which is translucent sheet material for footwear, apparel and automotives

The emergence of biofabricated material showcased an important step towards sustainable fashion. As investment in research and development in biomaterial continues, we can expect to see more innovative solutions that can challenge traditional materials and production methods.

Reference

Sustainability & Innovation: Biofabricated Materials - WGSN Fashion

Sustainability & Innovation: Bacteria-Powered Materials - WGSN Fashion

Time to make a big change

With environmental concerns increasing and consumer expectations changing, regulator worldwide are taking action to apply sustainability across supply chain. As we get deeper into the regulatory changes being applied in fashion, let;s explore each step being taken to make production and consumption responsible.

1. Product Design Standards: Design phase accounts for upto 80% of the product environmental impact. Acknowledging this EU's Ecodesign for Sustainable products Regulation has set minimum standards for product design. These standarsd include recyclability, durability, reusability, repairability and the use of hazardous susbstances.

Additionally, digital product passports are expected to become mandatory, providing consumers with transparent information about the environmental footprint of each garment.

2. Marketing Transparency: Greenwashing, is one of the common practice in the industry. To fight this, the EU Green Claims Directive requires companies to provide specific evidences that can claim sustainability claims. France has already implemented carbon labeling requirements for clothing, making the way for greater transparency in marketing practices.

3. Waste Management and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): With increase of textile waste in landfills, regulators are pushing for extended producer responsibility. This means that fashion brands will be required to finance the collection, sorting, and recycling of textile waste. Fees for EPR programs will vary based on production output and pollution levels, incentivizing brands to minimize waste generation. Moreover, the destruction of unsold goods is expected to be banned, encouraging brands to adopt more sustainable inventory management practices.

4. Reporting and Transparency: The Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) aims to standardize ESG disclosures, providing investors and consumers with reliable information about a company's environmental and social performance.

5. Global Impact and Supply Chain Traceability: Regulators in Asia are also progressing their own initiatives as 70% of the EU's textiles manufactured in Asia. Achieving full supply chain traceability is essential for regulatory compliance

6. Sourcing and Production Decarbonization: To address carbon emissions in the industry, brands are focusing on decarbonizing production processes through energy efficiency initiatives and shifting to renewable energy sources.

7. Design for Circularity: Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, is at the forefront of the EU's efforts to promote sustainability This legislation applies minimum design standards for all individual products sold within the EU, with a particular focus on recyclability, durability, reusability, repairability, and the use of hazardous substances.

Is Europe's Fashion council happy with this?

While The European Fashion Alliance realises the importance of the rules applied but they have few concerns about proposed measures.

1-EFA considers disclosure of unsold inventory volumes is highly sensitive data and they advocate to share this data with officials rather than the public.

2-Luxury labels have concern regarding the durability requirement, as their garments may not withstand wash test. EFA request for new standards that consider consumer care, quality, reusability and repairability to measure durability .

3-One of the concern of TFA is mandatory minimum for recycled content, which EFA fears could restrict creative freedom and lead to lower- quality products.

4- TFA requests policymakers to understand the limitation of technology and data gathering capabilities when introducing measures like increased recycling requirements and digital product passports.

5-Ban on destroying products is another point of concern, particularly for high- end brands to maintain their exclusive image.

Though European legislators strongly support stricter regulation of the fashion industry but specific details of these regulations are still being discussed.

References

The Year Ahead: What to Expect as New Sustainability Rules Roll In | BoF (businessoffashion.com)

Explainer: Why New Sustainability Rules Are Worrying the Fashion Industry | BoF (businessoffashion.com)

Dark side of Fashion

In the glamourous world of fashion, where trends come and go, there lies a darker reality under the surface- reality of textile waste and carbon emissions. While the appeal of discounts and new collections seem tempting, it is essential to consider impact of our clothing choices on environment.

The Fast Fashion Epidemic

Demand of fast fashion clothing has caused a surge in textile waste and carbon emissions. Here's a glance into statistics:

-Clothing production doubled between 2000-2015, leading to increase in textile consumption.

-Global consumption of textile per year is 62 million tonnes per year, which is estimated to rise to 102 million tonnes by 2030.

-51% of textile produced is Polyester, a synthetic textile which is significantly contributing to carbon emissions.

-Fashion industry is one of the largest polluters worldwide, accounting to 8.1% of global greenhouse gas emission.

-Average consumer buys 1 clothing in every 5.5 days, leading to wardrobe turnover rate which is never experienced in history

-Fashion Industry is expected to grow by 49% between 2016 and 2030, further increasing its environmental impact.

- Textile production generates more greenhouse gases per unit of material than almost any other industry, trailing only behind aluminum production.

-Industry is responsible for 20% of global water waste.

-Fashion Industry account for 35% of all oceanic microplastic pollution, highlighting its role in plastic pollution.

The Invisible Mountain of Unsold Garments

Almost 40% of clothes made each year - 60 billion garments end up unsold. This astonishing statistic shows the scale of overproduction in industry. Despite this , exact number os unsold garments remain covered in mystery, displaying lack of transparency prevalent in industry.

The Urgent Need for Change

As the fashion industry continues to grow unchecked, urgent action is needed to curb its environmental impact:

- Sustainable fashion brands and the acquiring of circular business models offers a hope in reducing textile waste and carbon emissions.

- Organic cotton farming and responsible sourcing of materials are important steps in reducing water wastage and chemical pollution.

- Recycling and upcycling can help divert clothing from landfills and reduce the industry's reliance on new materials.

- Consumer behaviour plays important role in initiating change, with increasing awareness leading to a shift towards sustainable fashion choices.

Conclusion

In the allure of style and affordability, it's easy to fail to see costs of fast fashion. However, as the environmental toll of the fashion industry becomes increasingly apparent, there's a need to rethink our consumption habits. By embracing sustainable fashion and advocating for systemic change within the industry, we can prepare for a more environmentally conscious future.

References

‘It’s the industry’s dirty secret’: why fashion’s oversupply problem is an environmental disaster | Fashion industry | The Guardian

60+ Shocking Fashion Industry Waste Statistics & Facts 2023 (sustainableninja.com)